Category Archives: Birding Trip Report

A Day at Chincoteague

During a quick trip to Virginia, we drove up to Chincoteague Island for a little birding. A friend of Sally’s, Chip, met up with us for a visit to National Wildlife Refuge and was a wonderful host/guide. Not only does he know his birds and is a skilled photographer, he has a sand permit allowing him to get out closer to some of the good birding areas with his SUV. It was hot and muggy but a great chance to get reacquainted with shorebirds.

Chip not only brought his 4WD vehicle, he brought his spotting scope and shorebird knowledge.

There were a number of Tri-colored Herons doing their stealthy stalk

Looks like a Greater Yellowlegs

We watched dozens of terns, mostly Forster’s, learning to get their food, diving from he bridge to the water.

Semi-palmated Sandpipers foraging

There were many Clapper Rails about, chasing one another, acting like chickens on drugs. (Sandpiper in background.)

After supper, we went back looking for night herons without luck but did see this nice Green Heron.

Leaving the refuge, Sally spotted about a dozen Chincoteague ponies in the hazy distance, part of the wild herd that just show up here and there on the island. They were a nice end to the outing.

Sani Lodge – Boat Trip

On day three, we trekked over to Rio Napo, by canoe, then walking, to board the big motorized boat to see some parrots. We had to leave very early because there is only an hour window or so when parrots come to the clay licks for feeding. They eat a variety of berries and toxic fruits- the clay counteracts toxicity, acting as an antidote and antacid.

The clay licks are a riot of color and noise as hundreds of birds come and go.

We stopped on an island to view the parrots on the clay cliffs across the river.

We saw Blue-headed Parrots, Yellow-crowned Parrots, Mealy Parrots, Dusky-headed Parakeets, and White-eyed Parakeets. Image courtesy Napo Wildlife Center

Heading upriver, we passed the “school boat” picking up students for the Sani Community School.

We then motored a little further, disembarked to explore a small island in the river where we got a little exercise trudging through sand and saw a number of good birds.

An adult Black Caracara and a juvenile watched us patiently as we photographed them.

This far-off Oriole Blackbird was stunning through the scope.

The group and the guides

Our next stop, which I’ll cover in the next post, was a stop for lunch at the Sani Community Center.

Sani Lodge – Observation Tower

As I mentioned in the last post, I am a pilot who is afraid of heights. No fire tower climbing for me, thank you, and I have to watch out for any hikes that have drop-offs, and I usually drive in the center lane of big suspension bridges. So in reading about the trip, I was concerned about the tower at Sani. It’s “only” 100 feet tall, next to a big Kapok tree, nothing to it. Not!

We left by boat for a 30 minute paddle.

It was interesting traveling

Followed by a relatively short walk to the tower.

The first glimpse of the tower did not inspire confidence.

Nor did the second one

I was about the last to climb and it was challenging. The higher I got, the more of a death grip I had on the railing. But I made it, crossed the final catwalk to the platform and once there, was able to relax a bit and enjoy the scenery and the birds.

No hanging over the rails to see birds down low

In the far distance, we and heard Howler Monkeys

These Many-banded Aracaris were typical of the many birds we saw from the tower.

This Gilded Barbet was another lovely find.

We saw and or heard over 90 species in the five hours we were out — including a rare Harpy Eagle (spotted by our guide, Olger Licury.) It was a great outing.

Sani Lodge

After a three hour bus ride to the city of Coca, a gritty city built up in the 1990’s oil boom, we waited around for other passengers who would make the 3.5 hour trip down the Rio Napo to the Sani Lodge. The long covered boat was tiring at the end of a long day, and then we to the fifteen minute walk on boardwalk to a small tributary where indigenous paddlers brought us to the lodge – which is perched on the water and deep in the rainforest.

The Sani Lodge is owned and operated by the Sani Community, a group of 500 indigenous people who live along the river.

Here is an interesting writeup on the lodge.

Our guide was intense but an expert at spotting birds – and after birding, very interesting and funny. 

You travel by boat to get anywhere from Sani Lodge.

Our native guide took one boat and Chip aptly handled bird-finding in the other

The stillness in the Amazon basin is amazing at both ends of the day. No airplanes, traffic noise, just birds, bugs, and other creatures.

We saw a lot of birds from the canoes — as well as a Caiman, monkeys, a sloth, and for a few, a big otter.

A Hoatzin, a pretty noisy large bird that has to be seen to be believed. Pronounced “watson”

A young Rufescent Tiger-heron close to the lodge.

The next post will tell how a pilot, afraid of heights, climbed a 150-foot observation tower – for the birds.

Crossing the Andes

We left the lush western slope of the Andes, heading toward Quito. As we descended into arid conditions caused by the mountains and warmed up for the first time in days as we took a short walk, spotting among other things, a Giant Hummingbird.

Further down the highway, we pulled off into a small community where the original monument marking the Equator stands. There is a larger one in Quito, aimed at tourists, but this apparently is the real deal.

Sally took some photos of the little community.

Crossing through Quito, we started a major climb up the eastern slope of the Andes, pausing for lunch where we met these school kids returning home.

Turning off the major highway, we explored the paramo, the higher terrain above the tree line where we encountered several new species, including Andean Hillstar hummingbird and this uncommon Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant. (Love that name)

We were climbing up to Papallacta Pass to try to find the Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe.

The pass is over 13,000 feet and was pretty raw and foreboding.

The view southeastward

It was an effort to get out of the bus and trek behind our guide but we all took our time and soon, just as we were thinking of heading back, a shout up ahead announced a sighting. We saw two seedsnipes — this shot pushed the limits of the SX-60 point and shoot.

A Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe at about 13,500′ msl

We did it and were soon back on the warm bus and backtracking down the windy dirt road to continue our journey to Guango Lodge. It was great to get down to an altitude where the air had some meat to it.

We arrived at the new lodge to find a new group of humingbirds – no rest for the weary.

Photos by Sally

On our second day at Tandayapa, Sally decided to spend a day birding at the lodge and took some great photos with her IPhone.

Four hummers at the feeder

Sally watched this Toucanet snatch and devour a hummingbird — “That’s nature.”

When we returned to the lodge, everybody had a chanc to hand-fed hummingbirds – quite an amazing experience.

Yanacocha Reserve, Ecuador

After rendezvousing in Quito with our group and our guide Andreas, and our driver, Roger, we launched in a small bus upward out of the city toward the nearby Yanacocha Reserve, with its  spectacular views over the summit of Pichincha Volcano and to more distant volcanoes.

The habitat is mainly high altitude (10,500′) Polylepis forest, of a type which is severely depleted throughout the Andes due to agriculture and charcoal production.

We had a 3 K trek, with steep overlooks and challenging walking due to the altitude out to a feeding station with many hummingbirds and other new species to see. Here are some examples of what we saw:

The area is known for the Swordbill hummer.

This Spectacled Whitestart snuck up to the feeder and left at once.

The Hooded Mountain Tanager is a species we frequently saw in the Western Andes.

These were foraging in the fog along the trail as we returned. Not sure of ID.

Several Shining Sunbeams were a highlight of our return trip. Striking on the front and back.

Our bus was waiting to take us on a winding back road journey to our first lodge.

Enroute, we stopped near this roadside shrine and were treated to an overflight by a rare Black-chested Buzzard Eagle.

 

 

Alaskan Birding Trip – Epilogue

It has been almost 24 years since the journey yet as I write this it seems like only yesterday. All that I remembered comes rushing back like the fast moving glacial streams. The experience we all shared together will always be with us and in our memories.

I can still see all that I told you about: such vivid pictures that no camera could ever capture. There are no words that can adequately describe the Alaska I saw. It is a land of gross hyperbole.  A land of adjectives and metaphors and still not enough to paint the picture. When I close my eyes and relive what I have seen and felt it is only then that I can in some small way understand this land.

On a day in Denali we climbed a ridge near the Savage River. Higher and higher we climbed and the wind became stronger, Finally near the top I stood alone high on this ravine catching the full force of nature’s breath. With arms outstretched and eyes closed tightly I wished, oh how I wished I could fly. To soar with eagles and ride the thermals, to sail in the wind. To be free!

"With arms outstretched and eyes closed tightly I wished, oh how I wished I could fly. To soar with eagles and ride the thermals, to sail in the wind. To be free! " photo of hiker by Paxson Woelber

“With arms outstretched and eyes closed tightly I wished, oh how I wished I could fly. To soar with eagles and ride the thermals, to sail in the wind. To be free! ” photo of hiker by Paxson Woelber

I remember standing on the cliffs on St. Paul. It wasn’t simply about the birds flying, the seals bellowing, and the foxes scampering over the land. The pyramid of life was there. From the oceans where it began to the cliff top where in us life has evolved to its highest end. In this intricate web of life we are all equals. We are not only related but need and depend on one another in order to sustain life itself. Let us never forget this bond.

As in all my trips I view my trip to Alaska as a privilege. A special privilege that makes me appreciate what has been given to me. The gift of seeing life as Mother Nature intended it to be. The beauty of the land and its flora and fauna; the daily struggle of life and death; and finally the birth of those that will offer the same view to others for eons to come.

We are not only guests to nature’s theater, we have roles in all of the plays and all the acts. But remember we are only co-stars on this the stage of life. We must make sure the curtain never closes on this show. The Greatest Show on Earth.

You only make the journey once so do everything you can to make sure your journey is rewarding not only for you but those that you will meet on your journey. Live the journey now , for every doorway that opens is a destination to a new journey.

Never the end just the beginning.

Gerry Cooperman

Alaskan Birding Trip – Anchorage and Denali

We landed in Anchorage and guess what – no cars. Maybe because we didn’t create a fuss because we had come to expect these incidents and as if by magic four cars suddenly were available. We make it to Motel 6, have a well deserved dinner and  get a good night’s sleep for tomorrow it’s on the road to Denali.

North on Rte. 1 to Rte. 3 the four Subaru wagons head out on our final adventure. And we are on paved roads at last. Once outside the city limits the scenery changes rapidly. From an urban setting to wilderness is rapid indeed and I hope that urban sprawl has not overtaken this land in the last 24 years.

Denali (Mt. McKinley) means big one – an apt description. Rising 20,300 feet into the clouds it is the highest point in North America and stands guard over its domain. We were fortunate in our stay to have sunny skies so Denali was utterly breathtaking.

We stop at a shimmering lake as two Trumpeter Swans provide a genteel and serene moment. Cruising back and forth they swim as one; a study of beauty and grace. Like two dancers performing nature’s ballet. This picture is securely tucked away in my memory of the Alaskan experience.

Two Trumpeter Swans provided us an unforgettable ballet memory.  photo by YellowstoneNPS

Two Trumpeter Swans provided us an unforgettable ballet memory. photo by YellowstoneNPS

Up the Parks Highway with Hawk Owl as our first objective. We weren’t successful but did find many “Evergreen Hawk Owls” , a hitherto unreported species, more then I care to remember. Eventually we found the real species and boy did we work for it.

We got to the park, purchased our tickets for tomorrow and took a ride out to Savage River. This is as far as you can go by car and gave us a glimpse of tomorrow. We had a herd of Dall Sheep come down to welcome us to their park.  We had two objectives for tomorrow and mapped out our strategy. We would be on school buses into the park and solicited good information regarding our targets. The point we would meet at was Marmot Rock taking the shuttle bus in two sections. We had a 6:30 AM bus to catch at the headquarters. Not a problem if someone else had been driving because I took my dumb decision-making pill that morning.

We left the motel with time to spare and as car four I was the last in line. On the way, our car and nobody else’s was stopped for the movement of construction equipment. As the minutes ticked away my common sense was disappearing as well and finally I could go. Off I went with a determination that blocked out intelligence as I sped right by the headquarters road. My passengers tactfully mentioned that we seemed to be driving longer than the practice run yesterday. No problem I said and then saw a mile marker that told me I missed the road. In the finest Boston tradition a U-turn on the highway was executed and I sped back. I pulled in an let my passengers off, parked the car and enjoyed the 200 yard dash with scope and backpack. We made it.

We were at Marmot Rock and began to spread out looking for our target. One of the group spotted a Gyrfalcon perched on a rock pinnacle. Then we discovered two , no three more. A family of Gyrs. Our excitement level was high. Then we found the Northern Wheatear foraging on the rocky hillside. That was the end of the birds so our attention switched to mammals. Moose, grizzly bear,and Dall sheep all had young they were tending to. Tomorrow’s stars of this wondrous place. Caribou, porcupines, marmots, and red foxes added to the menagerie. I especially enjoyed the fox as he nonchalantly strolled alongside the bus. A striking white-tipped tail on an otherwise rusty coloration. Then suddenly he pounced on something alongside the road. The kill was made and so continued the rhythm of life and death in Mother Nature’s realm.

The following day four of us decided to relocate the Gyrfalcon family. We found them quickly and scoped them for some time as they played. Soaring effortlessly then wheeling and turning knifing through the air with power and grace. Then play time was over and the young ones perched on a rock while the female began her hunt passing low over the terrain. The juveniles were watched over by the male and then they decide it was time to leave and off they went. Time to move on and get on a bus. We started walking and talking about our good fortune and little did we know the real excitement was about to begin.

As we were walking up the road we noticed the male high and off to our right. He suddenly banked and was in front headed our way. He then languidly flew over us inspecting these intruders on his land inspecting the trespassers and up he went behind a ridge. As he flew higher we then noticed the female had joined him. Then it happened. From out of nowhere a Golden Eagle was flying between the ridges. The two Gyrs rose as one and the male peeled off and headed for the eagle. With talons balled into a fist he hit the eagle like a lightning bolt. The eagle rolled right and in a split second the female now dove at the eagle’s head. Then a second eagle appeared and all they were trying to do now was escape. Flying as fast as their wings would allow.

Safe from intruders the Gyrs rose together as one. Masters of the sky, protectors of their domain. As a parting goodbye the female peeled off and repeated the male’s action by slowly flying over us not 10 feet above our heads. We had become accepted intruders this day in Polychrome Pass. Collectively we let out one gasp of breathless exhilaration. We had witnessed something that very few ever get to see. How fortunate we were indeed. This was our last day in Denali and what a day it was.

The Northern Three Toed Woodpecker breeds in North America, from northern Alaska, across Canada's boreal regions, through northern Saskatchewan, to north-central Labrador and Newfoundland. In Eurasia, south of tree line in Scandinavia and Siberia. Prefers coniferous forest and burntlands; less frequently mixed forest. Cavity nests generally placed in dead tree, usually conifer or aspen; sometimes nests in utility poles. photo by Superior National Forest
The Northern Three Toed Woodpecker breeds in North America, from northern Alaska, across Canada’s boreal regions, through northern Saskatchewan, to north-central Labrador and Newfoundland. In Eurasia, south of tree line in Scandinavia and Siberia. Prefers coniferous forest and burntlands; less frequently mixed forest. Cavity nests generally placed in dead tree, usually conifer or aspen; sometimes nests in utility poles. photo by Superior National Forest

The next day was overcast and with intermittent showers. We stopped at Carlo Creek birding in the mist and after an hour found our quarry: a Northern-three-toed Woodpecker, the quiet tapping denizen of the spruce woods. Seeing this bird made the day shine like the yellow crown that adorned his head. And on this note, our intrepid band of birders ended their Alaskan Adventure. 

Alaskan Birding Journey — Part 1

Birders,
This is a tale of an Alaskan journey with Bill Drummond and stops in Nome, St. Paul, and Anchorage. It is my story of how it began, the stops, the impressions, and most of all the birds. Come join me on my journey.
PART 1 – GENESIS
And so it begins. Not in a spectacular fashion , indeed, just the opposite. It is June 1989 and I am sitting in the Northwest Terminal restaurant being glared at by a raspberry croissant whose very existence was about to end. The Coke fared better , only that it lasted longer, but it’s fate was also doomed. Power does have its advantages. Here sits King Gerry , conqueror of croissants and soda. Time to think about how I got to this point.
Bill Drummond had announced an Alaska trip and being a professional procrastinator I simply let it slide. When some of my friends said they were going I decided to call Bill and of course the trip was full. “You’re on the wait list” were Bill’s words of encouragement. Now I don’t know if birders are by nature superstitious, but I can tell you this one is and I convinced myself that if I said anything to anybody I would jinx my chance to get on the trip. Like it would really matter! I became so convinced of this that if I met Bill in the field I never mentioned Alaska. My lack of action was all that was to blame.
While birding at Newburyport one day Bill approached and said.”Gerry it’s close — you are number one on the list so be ready.” To those of you that have been in this position you know it is pure mental torture. I am so close and yet so far away? When will he call? Should I call him? Maybe, someday, and nowhere the answers. I had reached “birding trip limbo”
This is a semi-euphoric state that does nothing but heighten your pains of anxiety. I know I’m close but will it finally happen? The more I wish for an an answer, the more I create a subconscious rationalization of defeat. I found it was not possible to put aside my chance of success or failure. You hope for success but failure always rears its ugly head. Nothing is perfect in this life but the mere thought of not going to Alaska is more than I am willing to accept. So much inner conflict. There has to be a need for group or individual therapy for birders.
The holidays came and went and still no word. Arriving home this January day my daughter says.” There’s a note from a Mr. Drummond on the counter.” On a yellow post it was this message, ” Mr. Drummond called  – Alaska is on – call ASAP.” Now one might think that a man in his castle would now release all his inner emotions in some sort of primal scream of joy and incoherent babbling.
Quite the opposite. I called Bill and said,”Hey that’s great – count me in.” Bills response was ” Super!  glad to have you aboard. I’ll be sending the final itinerary shortly. I also haven’t worked out all the room assignments yet, would you mind rooming with me if necessary?” Hells Bells! I would have roomed with a moose if I had to. I had left bird limbo and had entered bird euphoria.
In just a few days, I was at the gate waiting for the announcement. Of course I was processed through in record time. Only when you’re in a hurry does everything go wrong. But do I really care? Of course not as I begin my very special journey. This morning Boston – tonight Anchorage – tomorrow Nome. Thank you Wright Brothers. My flight is announced and the real journey is about to begin.
When does a birder become aware that their birding cannot be complete without a trip to Alaska?  photo by Seavamirum

When does a birder become aware that their birding cannot be complete without a trip to Alaska? photo by Seabamirum

The flight is Boston – Minneapolis – Anchorage. First leg is without incident. I should have known that my luck was going to be short lived. It appears that the airline overbooked the second leg and are trying to coax six people off the plane otherwise we stay grounded. The airlines negotiating process was tedious at best. The final offer was two free round trip tickets to anywhere in North America and $200 cash. The six also got dinner and a hotel for free. I was almost tempted but realized I had let greed be the temptress. I was on a birding trip and had to get to my destination.
At last with everything sorted out we began to board the plane. Boarding door shuts and we taxi down the runway for take off and finally are airborne. I let myself relax and reflect. When does a birder become aware that their birding cannot be complete without a trip to Alaska?  There are as many answers as there are birders. My reason was easy.When I had made birding my lifetime commitment, Alaska became my Mecca of North America. Reading all the books and seeing the pictures only fueled the flame. As I close my eyes and recall all the events prior to this moment I soon fall asleep. The plane droned northward.
“Ladies and gentlemen please fasten your seatbelts we are in our descent to Anchorage,” crackled over the intercom .  It was the most pleasant wake-up alarms I ever heard. Wheels on the ground, I’m in Alaska.
I arrived at 5:30 PM with a temperature of 65 under bright sunny skies. Shuttled over to the hotel, I expected to find the crew but have two messages waiting from Bill. I know this is not a good sign.  The first is to find another trip member and second and more ominous, “Meet me at the airport noon tomorrow and check to see what remains of United Flight 37.” If he sent the message all was not lost. So there was nothing to do but find the other person and have dinner.
Upon returning another message,” Do not fly to Nome without us; will eventually meet at the airport. Monitor through United Airlines.” After pleading with a supervisor I was told the plane was on the ground and would not leave until tomorrow maybe. They wouldn’t even tell me where it was. First call in the morning said there was no progress – the plane is still on the ground. What they didn’t tell me was it was preparing to depart. Next call confirmed plane was airborne.
We were waiting at the United terminal when it was announced that Flight 37 will arrive at the International Terminal since the plane is coming in from Canada. Engine trouble caused them to land in Saskatoon. Well the scene at Customs was pure bedlam as most passengers were coming with no passports and finally they waived through the entire flight. Finally we are all together and headed to gate B6 for our flight to Nome.
We board the plane, get airborne, wheels are up. Next stop Nome.
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